Yes. Every chimney in the Seattle area should have a cap, and it should be in good condition. A chimney cap is the metal hood with a mesh screen that sits over the top of the flue. Without one, the flue is an open pipe pointed at the sky in a city that averages 40.34 inches of rain a year and roughly 150 to 156 days with measurable precipitation. That rain goes straight down the flue, onto the damper, into the smoke shelf and the firebox, and into the mortar joints of the liner. The cap is the cheapest thing on the whole chimney, and it protects the most expensive things.
If you are not sure whether you have one, or the one you have is rusted, bent, clogged or missing its screen, we can check it with a free quote and replace it the same visit in most cases. Below is what a cap actually does, why the Seattle climate makes it non-negotiable, and how to tell when yours is done.
What a chimney cap does
A cap does four jobs at once:
- Keeps rain out of the flue. This is the big one in Western Washington. Water in the flue rusts the damper, breaks down clay tile liner joints, soaks the smoke shelf and creates the sour, smoky smell many Seattle homeowners notice after a wet week. In a masonry chimney, water plus the freeze-thaw cycle (about 60 days a year at or below 32 degrees here) cracks the tile and the brick.
- Keeps animals out. Raccoons, squirrels, birds and rats treat an uncapped flue as a warm, dry den. Chimney swifts in particular nest in open flues and are federally protected under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act, so once they move in, you wait them out. A screened cap prevents the problem before it starts.
- Stops embers and sparks. The mesh acts as a spark arrestor, catching burning bits that would otherwise land on the roof or in the fir needles in the gutter.
- Cuts downdrafts. The lid deflects wind across the top of the flue so gusts off the Sound are less likely to push smoke back into the room.
Why Seattle chimneys need a cap more than most
Three local facts make the case:
It rains most of the year. The wet season from October through March delivers about 29.65 inches, roughly 73 percent of the annual total, and November is the wettest month at 6.31 inches. That is the same stretch when the fireplace is in use. An open flue collects water exactly when the damper and firebox are seeing the most heat and cooling, which is the worst combination for metal and masonry.
The housing stock is old. Seattle's median home was built in 1976, Tacoma's in 1967, Shoreline's in 1969. A lot of these chimneys are original brick with clay tile liners. Many were built with no cap at all, and if one was added later it is often a decades-old galvanized unit that has rusted through. Rain going down an unlined or tile-lined flue for years is how a chimney ends up needing relining or a partial rebuild.
The wildlife is active. Tree-lined neighborhoods from West Seattle to Edmonds to Lakewood have plenty of raccoons and squirrels. An uncapped flue is an invitation, and nesting material in the flue is both a blockage and a fire hazard. If something has already moved in, see our chimney animal and nest removal page; never light a fire to drive an animal out.
How to tell if you need a new cap
You do not need to climb on the roof. From the ground, a window, or across the street with binoculars, look for:
- No cap at all. A bare flue tile or an open metal pipe at the top.
- Rust. Orange on the cap itself, or rust streaks on the crown or brick below it. Galvanized caps rust out in our climate; stainless does not.
- A missing, torn or bent screen. The screen is what keeps animals and embers where they belong. A cap without a working screen is half a cap.
- A lid that is loose, tilted or gone. Wind storms lift poorly fastened caps. If it sits crooked, it is probably not attached anymore.
- A clogged screen. Creosote and soot can glaze over the mesh, especially on wood-burning fireplaces that are not swept regularly. A clogged cap chokes the draft and sends smoke into the room. That is usually a sign the flue needs a chimney sweep too.
Inside the house: water in the firebox after a storm, a rusty or stiff damper, dripping sounds in the chimney, a damp smoky smell, or animal noises are all signs the top of the flue is open or the cap has failed.
Chimney cap vs. chase cover vs. crown
These get mixed up constantly, and it matters because they are different parts with different fixes:
- The cap is the small screened hood on the flue opening. Every chimney, masonry or prefab, should have one.
- The crown is the sloped masonry slab on top of a brick chimney. It protects the brick, not the flue opening. A cracked crown is a crown repair or rebuild job.
- The chase cover is the flat metal lid over a wood-framed, sided chimney on a factory-built fireplace. It protects the framed box. Rust streaks down siding usually mean a chase cover, not a cap. See chase cover replacement.
A masonry chimney needs a cap and a crown. A prefab chimney needs a cap and a chase cover. Many chimneys are missing one or have a failed one, and a quick look from the roof tells us which.
Choosing the right cap
Not all caps are equal, and the cheap ones are cheap for a reason. What we look at when we size and select a cap:
- Material. Stainless steel is the standard for our climate. It does not rust and it holds up to wet winters and salt air near the Sound. Copper is an option for homes where the look matters. Galvanized is the one to avoid; it is what is rusting on most of the chimneys we replace caps on.
- Fit. Single-flue caps clamp or bolt to the flue tile or pipe. Multi-flue caps cover two or more flues (common on older Seattle homes with a fireplace flue and a furnace flue side by side) and anchor to the crown. Prefab flue pipes need a cap listed for that pipe.
- Screen. The mesh needs to be small enough to stop animals and sparks but open enough not to choke the draft. A screen that is too fine clogs fast on a wood-burning flue.
- Height and lid. Enough clearance between the flue top and the lid for smoke to exit freely, with a lid wide enough to actually shed rain past the screen.
What it costs
Cap replacement is one of the least expensive jobs we do, and the price depends on the size, material and whether it is a single-flue or multi-flue unit. You get the number in a free quote before we start. If you have a written quote from another company, we price match it and take another 10 to 25 percent off. If you're not happy, we're not done; we make it right at no charge.
If the cap is going on with other work, it is cheaper to bundle. Our sweep and inspection special starts at $299, and a cap inspection is part of it. A crown rebuild starts at $299 and a chase cover replacement at $299, and a new cap goes on in the same trip.
What to do next
- Look at the top of your chimney from the ground. Note whether there is a cap, whether it is rusty or crooked, and whether the screen is intact.
- Check the firebox after the next rain. Water, rust flakes or a damp smell mean the top is open.
- Call us at 206-453-2045 or request a free quote online. Same-day service is often available across Seattle, Tacoma, Everett and the surrounding King, Pierce and Snohomish county cities.
We work from Renton and cover the road-accessible Puget Sound, including Seattle, Everett and Gig Harbor via the Tacoma Narrows Bridge. Certified and insured, safe and green materials, satisfaction guaranteed.
Questions homeowners ask
Do I need a chimney cap?
Yes. A cap keeps rain, animals and embers out of the flue and reduces downdrafts. In Seattle, with about 40 inches of rain a year spread over roughly 150 wet days, an uncapped flue collects water that rusts the damper and damages the liner and brick.
How much does a chimney cap cost?
It depends on size, material (stainless is the standard here) and whether it is a single-flue or multi-flue cap. We give a free quote first, price match any written quote plus 10 to 25 percent off, and can install it during a sweep and inspection, which starts at $299.
What happens if a chimney has no cap?
Rain goes straight down the flue, rusting the damper, soaking the smoke shelf and causing a sour smoky odor. Animals and birds nest in the open flue, and embers can exit onto the roof. Over years, water damage can lead to relining or masonry repair.
Is a chimney cap the same as a chase cover?
No. The cap is the screened hood over the flue opening. The chase cover is the flat metal lid over a framed, sided chimney chase on a prefab fireplace. Prefab chimneys need both; masonry chimneys need a cap and a sound crown.
Can I put a chimney cap on myself?
We recommend against getting on the roof. Caps need to be sized to the flue, fastened so wind cannot lift them, and matched to the pipe type on prefab systems. We can inspect and install one in a single visit with a free quote first.
Related