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Chimney Flashing Replacement in Seattle
Rusted, lifted or tarred-over flashing gets replaced, not patched. New step flashing, new counter flashing, cut into a fresh reglet. Free quote, price match.
- Free 2nd-opinion quotes
- Price match + 10–25% discount
- Same-day service often available
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Chimney flashing replacement, or a re-flash, means taking off the old metal around the base of the chimney and installing a new two-part system: step flashing interleaved with the shingles, and counter flashing cut into a new reglet in the mortar joints above it. It is the fix for flashing that is past resealing: rusted galvanized steel, aluminum corroded against the mortar, metal lifted along a whole side, or the single-piece surface-mounted flashing that was only ever held on by caulk and tar.
We replace flashing on brick, block and framed chimneys across Seattle, Tacoma, Everett and the Puget Sound. If your flashing is intact and only the seal has failed, a re-flash is more than you need; that case is on our chimney flashing repair page. We look at the metal first and quote the one that fits, with a free second opinion if someone has already told you to replace everything.
Symptoms
Signs you need chimney flashing replacement
- Rust holes or flaking on the flashing metal itself, not just the sealant
- Flashing lifted or pulled away from the brick along an entire side
- Thick layers of roofing tar or mastic covering the chimney base from past repairs
- Counter flashing glued to the face of the brick instead of set into a mortar joint
- A single flat sheet of metal around the chimney with no step flashing under the shingles
- Leaks that came back within a year of the last flashing repair
Common causes
- Galvanized flashing rusts through after years of wet Puget Sound weather
- Aluminum flashing corrodes where it touches mortar or concrete
- Surface-mounted counter flashing depends on caulk alone and peels off as the caulk ages
- A previous owner or roofer used tar instead of proper metal, which traps water behind it
- Flashing was not lapped correctly, so water runs behind the metal instead of over it
How It Works
Our chimney flashing replacement process
We look at every side of the chimney base and decide whether the metal can be saved. Rust-through, corrosion, lifted lengths, surface-mounted counter flashing and tar-covered metal all point to replacement. We check the brick and mortar where the new reglet will be cut, look at the roof deck beside the chimney for rot, and note whether a cricket is missing on the uphill side. If the shingles are near the end of their life, we say so, because new flashing under a roof about to be torn off is wasted money.
Remove the old system
We strip the old counter flashing, step flashing, tar and sealant down to clean brick and roof deck, lifting the surrounding shingles as needed.
Repair the substrate
Soft mortar joints are repointed and damaged brick replaced so the new reglet has something solid to anchor into. Rotten deck edges are flagged for repair.
Install new step flashing
Each piece is woven with a shingle course so water is carried out onto the roof at every step.
Cut a new reglet and set counter flashing
We grind a clean reglet into the mortar joint above the step flashing, bend the counter flashing to fit, and lock it in with mortar and fasteners. A cricket is added on wide downhill chimneys.
Seal and water-test
Top edges and corners get a flexible sealant, then we run water over the finished flashing to confirm it sheds properly.
Options
Repair and service options
The choices in a re-flash are the metal and the details, and both matter more than the brand of sealant.
- Galvanized steel is the budget option and the one most often found rusted; we do not recommend it for this climate.
- Aluminum is inexpensive but must be isolated from mortar.
- Copper lasts the longest and is the traditional choice on older Seattle and Tacoma brick. It costs more and weathers to a brown-green patina.
- Stainless or prefinished steel is a solid mid-range choice that resists rust and can be color-matched to the roof.
- Reglet-set counter flashing is the standard we install. Surface-mounted counter flashing caulked to the brick face is something we replace, not something we install.
- Cricket (saddle): for wider chimneys on the downhill side of a ridge, a cricket is often the difference between a permanent fix and a leak that returns.
- Framed chase flashing: on sided chimneys the flashing meets housewrap and siding instead of brick. If the chase is rotten at the base, see chase repair.
Pricing
What affects the price
- Chimney size and how many linear feet of step and counter flashing are needed
- Metal choice: galvanized, aluminum, stainless or copper
- Condition of the mortar joints and brick where the new reglet is cut
- Whether a cricket has to be built on the uphill side
- Roof type and pitch; tile, metal and steep roofs take longer than composition shingle
Every chimney is different, so you get a written quote after we look at the system. Ask about our price match and free second-opinion quote.
Safety & Seattle Conditions
Safety considerations
Flashing replacement means cutting into mortar joints and lifting shingles at the steepest, wettest part of the roof. It is not a homeowner job. We bring the equipment and we are certified and insured. If water is coming in now, call 206-453-2045; we can often make a same-day temporary seal and schedule the full re-flash for the next dry window.
Seattle & Puget Sound conditions
Flashing metal in the Puget Sound spends most of the year wet. With 40.34 inches of normal annual rain at Sea-Tac and about 150-156 days of measurable precipitation, galvanized flashing rarely gets the dry stretches that slow rust, and the October-to-March wet season carries roughly 73% of the annual total.
Winter lows at Sea-Tac average around 37F, with about 60 days a year touching 32F and only about 4 that stay frozen all day, so water trapped behind flashing or in a mortar joint freezes and thaws repeatedly. The Brick Industry Association identifies that cycle as the cause of cracking and spalling in saturated masonry. New flashing set into sound mortar keeps water out of those joints.
Our Work
Chimney Flashing Replacement in action
Replace it once, the right way
Free quote, free second opinion, price match plus 10-25% off. Call 206-453-2045 for flashing replacement in Seattle, Tacoma and Everett.
☎ 206-453-2045 Request a QuoteQuestions
Chimney Flashing Replacement FAQ
How do I know I need flashing replacement rather than a repair?
Look at the metal, not the caulk. Rust holes, corrosion, metal lifted along a whole side, a single flat sheet with no step flashing, or counter flashing glued to the brick face all call for replacement. If the metal is sound and only the sealant or mortar has failed, a flashing repair is enough. We look first and quote the right one.
What is a reglet and why does it matter?
A reglet is the groove cut into a mortar joint that the counter flashing tucks into. It lets the metal be held by mortar rather than by caulk on the brick face. Surface-mounted counter flashing that skips the reglet depends entirely on sealant, which shrinks and splits in a few wet seasons. Every re-flash we do uses a reglet.
Which metal is best for chimney flashing in Seattle?
Copper lasts longest and suits older brick homes; stainless or prefinished steel is a good mid-range choice; aluminum is fine if isolated from mortar; galvanized steel is the one we most often find rusted through. We quote more than one metal when the difference matters and price match a written quote plus 10-25% off.
Should flashing be replaced when I get a new roof?
It is the best time, because the shingles are already off and the step flashing can be woven in correctly. If your roofer replaces the step flashing but leaves the old counter flashing, ask them to coordinate with us so the reglet and counter flashing are done properly at the same time.
Do I need a cricket behind my chimney?
If the chimney is wide and sits on the downhill side of a slope, water piles up behind it and no flashing detail can shed a pond. A cricket is a small peaked saddle that splits that water around the chimney. We tell you if one is missing and include it when it is the difference between a fix and a repeat leak.
The brick behind my flashing is crumbling. Can you still re-flash?
Yes, but the masonry has to be repaired first, because a reglet cut into soft or spalled brick does not hold. We repoint the joints or replace the bad brick, then set the new counter flashing. If the damage is extensive we combine the re-flash with chimney repair in one visit and one quote.
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